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Ingredients 71g Tart Wax (I use Pillar of Bliss from Nature's Garden) 7g Fragrance Oil 1 pinch Glow In The Dark Pigment Directions Melt wax using melting pot in a hot water bath or double boiler to 195 degrees Fahrenheit. If you are not using Pillar of Bliss, melt wax according to manufacturer's instructions. Remove container of melted wax from heat and add fragrance oil and pigment then stir for 1 to 2 minutes. Pour wax into silicone mold immediately after stirring. Pop wax melts out of mold after they are completely solid (I let mine sit overnight). Note from Mad Micas: Please expose pigment to light. This activates it and causes it to glow when the lights go out. Using other colorants (including and especially titanium dioxide) will decrease the glow! Any colorant will decrease the amount of light that can be absorbed by the powder. If you plan on using a mica with this pigment, please use very little so the glowing results aren't diminished.

Before you start making handmade cold process soap, you'll want to make sure you have everything you need. I have listed everything that I think is important to creating your first batch of soap. Supplies Needed Scale: An accurate scale is essential for measuring lye, oils/butters, water, and other additives. I recommend getting a scale that can measure both ounces and grams. Also, getting a scale with 0.01 gram accuracy definitely doesn't hurt. Mold: There are so many soap molds out there to choose from but here is a kit of the most popular loaf mold recommended for beginners and a cavity mold as well. And if you want to start off with small batches, this set is great to start with. Immersion Blender/ Stick Blender: I find stick blenders to be the most effective tool for blending lye solution with oils for the saponification process. Lye-Safe Containers: Containers with the #5 polypropylene or the #2 HDPE symbol on the bottom are the safest for mixing lye. Masks, Gloves, Safety Glasses: Keeping yourself safe from lye splash-back is paramount. Spoons & Spatulas: Stainless steel spoons are great for mixing lye and silicone spatulas are perfect for stirring and scraping. Small Containers or Beakers: These are handy for measuring fragrances, colorants and other additives. Microfiber Cloth or Paper Towels: These are 2 great solutions for inevitable messes. Knife or Soap Cutter: If you are using a loaf mold, a knife is the most cost effective tool to use in the beginning to cut your soap but after awhile you may want to upgrade to a cheese slicer or soap cutter or even a multi-bar cutter. Thermometer Gun: An infrared thermometer gun is best used for monitoring your lye solution and oil temperatures. I also keep a digital thermometer for backup. Bowl/Container for Mixing Soap: A heat safe bowl or container is ideal for melting butters and oils and a lye safe container or stainless steel bowl is great for mixing soap batter. Proper Attire: Wearing long sleeves, pants, and closed toed shoes help keep your skin protected from lye. Curing Space: A designated space for curing your cold process soap is highly recommended. This could be a shelf, cabinet, table, bakery rack, etc.

Ingredients Water Phase 31.5% | 15.75g Water 16% | 8g Rose Water 7% | 3.5g Vegetable Glycerin Heated Oil Phase 9% | 4.5g Sunflower Oil 2% | 1g Cetyl Alcohol 9% | 4.5g Emulsifying Wax NF Cool Down Phase 1.5% | 0.75g Optiphen 2% | 1g Rose Clay 22% | 11g Kaolin Clay Directions Prepare a water bath by bringing 1 inch of water to a simmer on medium-low heat in a sauté pan. In a heat resistant beaker, weigh out the water phase and add it to the water bath. Repeat this in a different beaker with the heated oil phase. After 20 minutes in the water bath, your oil phase should be fully melted and you can now remove both beakers from the water bath. Due to evaporation, your water phase will have lost a few grams, so you will need to add that back by putting your heated oil phase beaker on the scale, taring/clearing the scale, then pouring the water phase into the oil phase. The total amount of the water phase should be 27.25g, if this is not the case, pour hot distilled water into your mixture to bring it to 27.25g. Mix with milk frother or milk forther attachment for 1-2 minutes. After mixing, slowly stir in rose clay and kaolin clay. When your mixture is under 140 degrees Fahrenheit add optiphen. Your mask will begin to thicken as it cools. I typically scoop mine into a small glass jar about 2-4 hours after I have finished making it.

HANDCRAFTED BATH & BODY PRODUCTS Sell Our Handmade Products In Your Store Check out our new bulk prices on bath bombs, bath salts, lip balms, face masks and more! Shop Wholesale Gift Boxes & Much More Take a look at our handcrafted gift boxes and other goodies, including our "As Seen On YouTube" selection. Shop Retail MEET CHARMED At Charmed Handmade we believe that what goes on your body is as important as what goes in your body; therefore, we pride ourselves on making products that are 100% vegan, cruelty free, and free of harsh chemicals. Every ingredient is vigorously researched and tested in order to provide our customers with hydrated and healthy looking skin. Since starting this business, we have been featured on the Tamron Hall Show, Buzzfeed, Etsy, GoodHousekeeping, and Yahoo Entertainment just to name a few.

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