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If this is your first time making cold process soap, please visit this blog post first: https://www.charmedhandmade.com/post/the-beginner-s-guide-to-making-cold-process-soap-with-recipe   Recipe Mold Size -   65 oz Extra Skinny Soap Mold Ingredients 6.38 oz - Sodium Hydroxide (Lye) 12.96 oz - Distilled Water 26.22 oz - Olive Oil 11.5 oz - Coconut Oil 4.6 oz - Shea Butter 3.68 oz - Castor Oil 1.15 oz - Tea Tree Essential Oil 1 tbsp - Activated Charcoal Hawaiian Black Salt  (optional) Directions Gather your supplies. Put on your gloves, safety glasses, and long sleeves. Be sure to be in a well-ventilated area free of pets, children, or those that need supervision. Measure out the required amount of lye into a  lye safe container . Into a different lye safe container, measure out the distilled water. Slowly pour a small amount of lye into the distilled water and stir. Continue this until your lye is fully dissolved in the distilled water. Set aside to cool.  Always pour the lye into the liquid, never the other way around. In a heat-resistant bowl, measure and melt the Shea butter and coconut oil. After your Shea butter and coconut oil are liquified, pour the olive oil and castor oil into that same heat-resistant bowl. Also, measure out your tea tree oil in a separate container and set aside. Add the 1 tablespoon of activated charcoal to your oil mixture and mix thoroughly with a silicone spatula or other mixing utensil. Once your oil mixture and your lye solution are both in the 70 - 80 degrees Fahrenheit range (or are at room temperature), slowly pour the lye solution into the oils and mix with a   stick blender  until it has formed an emulsion (can no longer be separated). This typically takes just a few seconds. Add the essential oil to the batter and mix with your mixing utensil. After the essential oil has been stirred in, mix again with the stick blender until medium trace is achieved. Pour the soap mixture into the mold evenly and tap on a hard surface to release air bubbles. To add decoration to your soap, use a mini spatula  or a similar tool to scrape the top of the soap horizontally about ⅔ of the way across, do this repeatedly all the way down your soap. On the other third sprinkle Hawaiian black salt. Spray 99% isopropyl alcohol on top of the soap in order to help prevent soda ash. Let your soap sit in the mold for at least 24 hours then unmold and cut into bars ( I do 1 inch bars). Allow your soap to cure for 4-6 weeks on a drying rack or wax paper in a cool, well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight. Download the SoapCalc recipe here

Supplies Mooncake mold Medium sized bowl Sieve (optional) Whisk or mixing utensil Scale Teaspoon Ingredients 230g Baking Soda 125g Citric Acid 15g Kaolin Clay 3/4 tsp Fragrance Oil or Essential Oil 1 tsp Witch Hazel 1/4 - 1/2 tsp Mica Directions In a medium sized bowl, combine baking soda, citric acid, kaolin clay, and mica. Mix ingredients thoroughly. Be sure to break down any clumps. I find it easiest to sift the ingredients. Add fragrance oil/essential oil to dry ingredients. Slowly pour the witch hazel into the dry mixture. The witch hazel will make the mixture begin to activate so be sure to mix with a whisk while adding the witch hazel. Mix until it can be firmly squeezed and hold together. Loosely pack mixture into mooncake mold then press onto table or level surface. Let shower steamers dry for 24-48 hours then shrink-wrap or put in airtight container.

Have you ever wanted to make your own cold process soap? It may seem daunting at first, but with the right materials and a bit of practice, anyone can make quality cold process soap! In this blog post, we’ll break down the basics of making cold process soap from scratch. Step 1: Gather Your Materials First, you’ll need to gather all the necessary items for your soap-making project. You will need a digital scale, a soap mold, a stick blender, a thermometer, and lye safe mixing bowls and utensils. You will also need ingredients like lye, distilled water, solid oils (like coconut or palm oil), liquid oils (like olive oil or castor oil), essential oils or fragrance oils if desired, and any additional ingredients like herbs, micas, and clays. Make sure to use proper protective gear like goggles and gloves when handling lye. Please check out our article on lye safety or watch this video before making your first batch of soap. Step 2: Mix Your Lye Solution The next step is mixing your lye solution. Using a lye safe container, measure out your lye using a digital scale. Next, measure out the distilled water in a separate lye safe container. Once both are measured out, carefully pour lye crystals into the distilled water— never add water to lye ! Add the lye crystals slowly while stirring continuously until all the lye has dissolved into the water. Once again, be sure to wear safety goggles, gloves and clothing that covers your arms and legs, as lye is caustic and can cause serious burns when handled improperly. Additionally, always mix your lye solution in a well ventilated area free of pets, children, or those that need supervision. Always pour your lye into the water. Here, I am using polypropylene cups from Dollar Tree as my lye safe containers. Step 3: Measure Out Your Oils While the lye solution cools, in a separate heat-safe container, measure out your solid and liquid oils. Heat this mixture until the solid ingredients are fully melted. In a small container, measure out your fragrance oil or essential oil and set aside. Step 4: Create Your Soap Mixture Once your oil mixture and your lye solution are both in the 110-120 degrees Fahrenheit range, it’s time to make soap! Start by slowly pouring your cooled off lye solution into your oils and mix with a stick blender/immersion blender , making sure to avoid introducing air bubbles. Blend for about 20 seconds or until the oil and lye solution are mixed together then add any fragrances, herbs, clays, or colorants you want to use. Begin mixing again and keep blending until the mixture reaches a trace, which is when it thickens and leaves a trail on the surface. At this point, the mixture has formed an emulsion, meaning that the lye solution and oil mixture can no longer be separated. You can test trace by drizzling some soap mixture over itself. This mixture has a medium trace. Step 5: Pour the Mixture into the Mold Pour the mixture into the mold , making sure to remove any air pockets by tapping the mold gently on a hard surface. Then, cover the mold with the lid or cardboard to insulate the soap, allowing it to set for 24-48 hours. Slowly pour soap into soap mold Step 6: Cut and Cure the Soap Once the soap has set, remove the soap from the mold and cut it into bars with a knife or a soap cutter . Then, place the bars onto a drying rack and let them cure for 4-6 weeks. During the curing process, the soap will harden, and the chemical reactions will complete, making it safe to use. Let your soap cure on a shelf with space between each bar Making cold process soap requires patience but once you understand how each ingredient works together it becomes easier over time. As you become more experienced, you can experiment with different ingredients and techniques. Remember to store your soap in a cool and dry place and enjoy your beautiful and personalized soaps. Happy soap making! Recipe ​ Ingredients 3.92 oz - Sodium Hydroxide (Lye) 7.95 oz - Distilled Water 18.20 oz - Olive Oil 7.00 oz - Coconut Oil 1.40 oz Castor Oil 1.40 oz - Cocoa Butter (I use deodorized cocoa butter) 0.88 oz - Fragrance Oil Directions Gather your supplies. Put on your gloves, safety glasses, and long sleeves. Be sure to be in a well-ventilated area free of pets, children, or those that need supervision. Measure out the required amount of lye into a lye safe container . Measure out the required amount of water into a separate lye safe container. Slowly pour the lye into the water and stir. Set aside to cool. In a heat-resistant bowl, measure and melt cocoa butter, olive oil, castor oil and coconut oil. You may need to microwave mixture in order to get it to 110-120 degrees Fahrenheit for the next step. Also, measure out your fragrance oil in a separate container and set aside. Once your oil mixture and your lye solution are both in the 110-120 degrees Fahrenheit range, slowly pour the lye solution into the oils and mix with a stick blender until it has formed an emulsion (can no longer be separated). This typically takes just a few seconds. Add fragrance oil and mix with a stick blender until you get to a medium trace then immediately pour into soap mold. Be sure to scrape sides of the container with a spatula or other utensil in order to get all of your mixture into the mold. Use a small spoon to add texture to the top of the soap or leave flat topped. Spray 99% isopropyl alcohol on top of the soap in order to help prevent soda ash. This step is optional. Let your soap sit in the mold for 24 to 48 hours then unmold and cut into 1 inch bars. Allow your soap to cure for 4-6 weeks on a drying rack or wax paper in a cool, well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight. Download the SoapCalc recipe here

Ingredients 5.16 g | 15.5% Cocoa Butter 5.3g | 16% Beeswax (I used this brand ) 3.6g | 11% Candelilla Wax ( I used this brand ) 2g | 6% Coconut Oil 4g | 12% Castor Oil 11g | 33% Grapeseed Oil 2g | 6% Jojoba Oil 0.16g | 0.5% Vitamin E Supplies Kitchen scale Beaker or heat resistant container Mixing utensils/ silicone spatulas Lip Balm Tubes Directions Prepare a water bath by bringing 1 inch of water to a simmer on medium-low heat in a sauté pan. In a small heat resistant beaker, measure out all ingredients except Vitamin E and add beaker to water bath. Once ingredients in the beaker have melted, remove the beaker from the water bath and stir. Add Vitamin E oil to the beaker and stir again. Pour lip balm liquid into lip balm tubes and let cool. Notes This recipe makes (7) 0.15 oz lip balm tubes. I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com

Ingredients 56% | 112g Shea Butter (I use refined) 20% | 40g Sunflower Oil 10.5% | 21g Grapeseed Oil 13% | 26g Arrowroot (optional) 0.5% | 1g Vitamin E Oil Supplies Kitchen scale Medium sized mixing bowl or container Hand mixer or stand mixer 12 oz container or (2) 6 oz containers for storing butter Mixing utensils/ silicone spatulas Directions In a medium sized bowl/container, add Shea butter, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, and vitamin E oil. I suggest breaking the Shea butter into smaller chunks in order to mix it easier. Mix on high with hand mixer or stand mixer for approximately 3-5 minutes. Add arrowroot powder to same container and mix for another 2 minutes. I suggest mixing in the arrowroot powder with a silicone spatula or mixing utensil first then using the hand mixer (this helps prevent the powder from blowing everywhere). If you opt to not add arrowroot powder, simply scrape the sides of your container (to make sure the whole batch is thoroughly mixed) and mix on high for another 2 minutes. Store your whipped body butter in an air tight jar. Notes Grapeseed oil and sunflower oil can be substituted for the liquid carrier oils of your choice. Please be aware that this may change the consistency and feel of the body butter. Arrowroot powder has been added to help cut down on the greasiness but can be omitted. I you would like to add a skin safe fragrance oil, I would recommend adding 0.5-1% (1-2 grams for original recipe) and subtracting this amount from the oil percentage If your Shea butter is grainy, you will need to follow the steps from this recipe https://www.charmedhandmade.com/post/lavender-double-whipped-body-butter

Ingredients 575g Baking Soda 285g Citric Acid 20g SLSA 15g Kaolin Clay 10g Sunflower Oil 5g Witch Hazel 10g Fragrance Oil  (I used Rose Gold Fragrance Oil from Brambleberry) 5g Polysorbate 80 1/4 tsp of Pink Mica  (I used Strawberry Moonshine from Mad Micas) 1/4 tsp of Gold Mica  (I used Matte Gold from Mad Micas) Directions In a large bowl, combine baking soda, citric acid, SLSA, pink mica, and kaolin clay (all dry ingredients except gold mica). Mix thoroughly and be sure to break down any clumps. I find it easiest to sift the ingredients. After mixing, add the sunflower oil, fragrance oil, and polysorbate 80 to the bowl containing the dry ingredients. In a separate container, weigh out the witch hazel then slowly pour it into the large bowl containing the other ingredients. I find it best to mix with a whisk while pouring. The mixture will begin to slowly bubble/activate but mixing while pouring will minimize this. Mix with gloved hands until your mixture can be firmly squeezed and hold together. Fill up the mold  with the mixture, be careful to not overpack (unless you want a thick Saturn ring), then press. If your bath bomb mixture starts to dry out or your bath bombs break apart, spray mixture with a very small amount of witch hazel and mix. In order to create paint for the bath bombs, mix a few drops of 91% isopropyl alcohol with a pinch of gold mica and stir until smooth and paint on with a flat and wide paint brush. Notes Sunflower oil can be substituted for grapeseed oil, sweet almond oil, safflower oil, or your favorite liquid carrier oil. If you are using the same bath bomb mold as me and need assistance, here are the instructions: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GF-xTz9J8fY . Bath bombs are best packaged in shrink wrap or stored in an airtight container. In this recipe, polysorbate 80 is used to help prevent mica from forming a color ring around the tub. To use bath bombs, add one to warm bath water and enjoy! This recipe makes 6-7 2.25” bath bombs.

If this is your first time making cold process soap, please visit this blog post first: https://www.charmedhandmade.com/post/the-beginner-s-guide-to-making-cold-process-soap-with-recipe   Discounting Fruit & Vegetable Purees for Lye Solution Since purees contain water, reduce the amount of liquid (distilled water and milk in this case) in your lye solution by the same amount of puree you’re adding. For instance, if you add 4 ounces of puree, reduce your liquid by 4 ounces. Recipe Mold Size - 65 oz Extra Skinny Soap Mold Preparing Coconut Milk In order to prepare your coconut milk for soap-making, you will need to pour it into ice trays and let it freeze. I used   silicone ice trays  for easy removal. Doing this step helps keep the coconut milk from scorching when the lye is added. Preparing Mango Puree In order to puree the mango, p eel the mango and chop it into chunks then place the diced mango into a blender or food processor and blend until smooth. Ingredients Lye Solution Distiller Water - 4.21 oz Frozen Coconut Milk - 4.21 oz Lye - 6.12 oz Oils Olive Oil - 25.52 oz Coconut Oil - 10.12 oz Apricot Kernel Oil - 5.28 oz  Castor Oil - 3.08 oz Additives Fragrance Oil - 1.93 oz Mango Puree - 4 oz Orange Mica - 1/4 tsp Titanium Dioxide - 1/8tsp Directions Gather your supplies. Put on your gloves, safety glasses, and long sleeves. Be sure to be in a well-ventilated area free of pets, children, or those that need supervision. Measure out the required amount of lye into a   lye safe container . Into a different lye safe container, measure out the frozen coconut milk cubes and distilled water. The total amount of liquid should be 8.42 oz. Slowly pour a small amount of lye into the liquid mixture and stir. Repeat this until your lye is fully dissolved in the water/coconut milk mixture. Set aside to cool. Always pour the lye into the liquid, never the other way around. In a heat-resistant bowl, measure and melt coconut oil. After your coconut oil is liquified, pour olive oil, apricot kernel oil and castor oil into that same heat-resistant bowl. Also, measure out your fragrance oil in a separate container and set aside. Once your oil mixture and your lye solution are both in the 75 - 85 degrees Fahrenheit range, slowly pour the lye solution into the oils and mix with a stick blender until it has formed an emulsion (can no longer be separated). This typically takes just a few seconds. Add fragrance oil, and mango puree to the batter and mix by hand with a silicone spatula or other mixing utensil. After the mango puree and fragrance oil have been stirred in, mix again with the stick blender until thin trace is achieved. Pour about 1/4th of the batter into a separate container. To the main (larger) batter, add orange mica. To the smaller batter, add titanium dioxide. You will need disperse the titanium dioxide in small amount of distilled water first if water soluble or in oil if not. Using separate mixing utensils, hand mix each batter. After the colorants are mixed in, stick blend white batter for a few seconds to be sure that the color is fully mixed then do the same with the orange soap batter. Once both mixtures are at medium trace, in a circular motion, drizzle the white soap batter into the larger container of orange batter. Pour the soap mixture into the mold going back and forth. After filling, be sure to scrape both containers clean and add to mold. To add texture to the top of the soap, you can massage the soap batter with a chopstick creating wave-like peaks and divots. Be sure to remove any air pockets by tapping the mold gently on a hard surface. Spray 99% isopropyl alcohol on top of the soap in order to help prevent soda ash. This step is optional. Let your soap sit in the mold for 48 hours then unmold and cut into 1 inch bars. Allow your soap to cure for 4-6 weeks on a drying rack in a cool, well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight. Notes The liquid portion of your lye solution can be up to 100% coconut milk. Using half distilled water and half coconut milk is just my personal preference. To easily disperse the mica into the soap batter, mix it with a small amount of carrier oil first. Download the SoapCalc recipe here

Ingredients 1lb White Melt & Pour Soap (I use this brand ) 1Tbsp Ground Oats or Colloidal Oats 1Tbsp Fragrance Oil Directions Cut melt and pour soap into small pieces, add to a microwave safe container then microwave in 30 second bursts until the soap is fully melted. Once the soap is fully melted, add fragrance oil and ground oats and stir. Slowly pour mixture into soap mold then let soap sit until completely solid and unmold. Notes To grind my oats, I added rolled oats to a coffee grinder. If you do not want the oats to collect at the top of the soap, I recommend using Colloidal Oats instead. In order to get rid of air bubbles, spray 91% isopropyl alcohol on soap before letting them dry.

Supplies Heat Resistant Container or Beaker Stirring Utensil Small Sauté Pan or Microwave Lipstick Mold (I got mine from TKB Trading ) TKB Trading Lipstick Base TKB Trading Lip Liquid Sampler (best if you're testing multiple colors) Lipstick Tubes (Here are the tubes I bought) Small Rubberbands Lightweight Oil Cotton Swab Ingredients (per lipstick) Pink Lipstick 3g Lipstick Base 0.5g Yummy Pink Lip Liquid 0.3g Sakura Mica ( Mad Micas ) 2 drops flavor oil (optional) Red Lipstick 3g Lipstick Base 0.3g True Red Mica ( Mad Micas ) 0.7g Perky Pink Lip Liquid Burgundy Lipstick 3g Lipstick Base 0.3g Coming Up Roses Lip Liquid 0.2g Red Oxide ( Mad Micas ) 0.1g Roasted Chestnut Lip Liquid Directions Prepare a water bath by bringing 1 inch of water to a simmer on medium-low heat in a sauté pan. Dip a cotton swab in a small amount of lightweight carrier oil ( I used fractionated coconut oil). Pull apart the lipstick mold and wipe all cavities with the oil dipped cotton swab. Be sure to not add too much oil to the mold, as the oil can collect at the bottom of the mold causing the final product to be greasy. The oil is only added so that the lipstick may slip out of the mold easier. After the oil has been applied to both pieces, put the pieces back together and wrap with the rubberbands (to keep the two pieces together). Add the lipstick base and colorant/mica/lip liquid to a heat safe container or beaker. Add the container to the water bath. Once the lipstick base is completely melted, stir the mixture until the colorant is mixed in thoroughly. Immediately pour the lipstick into the mold and carefully place in the freezer. After at least 30 minutes, remove the mold from the freezer, take the rubberbands off and carefully pull top of the mold off. Be sure that your lipstick tube is twisted all of the way up then put the tube over the exposed lipstick and pull it out of the mold. If the lipstick will not come out of the mold, pop the mold back in the freezer for a few minutes then try the process again. Notes You can also melt the base in the microwave in 20 second bursts then add the colorant after the base is melted. This should be done in a microwave safe container. Resources https://tkbtrading.com/pages/lipstick-quick-start https://support.tkbtrading.com/hc/en-us/articles/360023146211-Additives-How-To-Color-Lipstick

Supplies Wax melting pitcher /pot or heat safe container Thermometer Candle Tin (2) Utensil to mix wax (I use a cocktail spoon ) Kitchen Scale Small Pot Ingredients 312g Coconut Apricot Wax 28g Sea Salt and Orchid Fragrance Oil Dried Rose Petals (optional) Black Candle Dye (optional) Directions Prepare a water bath by bringing about an inch of water to a simmer on medium-low heat in a small pot. Weigh out your wax in a heat safe container/melting pitcher and place the container in the water bath in order to melt the wax. Once your wax reaches 200 degrees Fahrenheit, remove the container from the water bath and mix in the fragrance oil. If you are adding candle dye, do so at this step and mix thoroughly. Once you have completed stirring, immediately pour your mixture into the candle tins, splitting the mixture evenly between the two. Your pouring temperature may vary if using a different wax. Let your wax solidify completely. If you would like to add dried rose petals or other decorations, melt the top of the candle with a heat gun then sprinkle them on top and let set. Notes If you are coloring the full batch, add 6-12 drops of dye and for a half batch, add 3-6 drops. Hive and Honey Candle Co recommend a 1-2 week cure time to maximize hot and cold throw for this wax. If you are using a different wax, please adhere to the melting instructions for that wax. This recipe uses approx. 9% fragrance oil. To use wickless candles, I recommend purchasing a candle warmer. Here are links to the candle warmers I have: https://amzn.to/3yhkP4g & https://amzn.to/3YkQ09q

This all natural hair oil is formulated for dreadlocks, sisterlocks, microlocs and can also be used for other natural hairstyles! Avocado Oil Is said to moisturize the scalp which helps reduce dandruff while boosting the shine and elasticity of the hair, and that in turn helps prevent breakage and hair damage. Argan Oil This is definitely one of my favorite oils for both skin and hair and is also referred to as “liquid gold". For hair it is said to fight dandruff, reduce frizz, boost hair growth and soothe the scalp while also adding shine. Coconut Oil The lauric acid in coconut oil is said to help nourish hair and tame frizz so you can maintain a glossy sheen and healthy texture and can also help prevent protein loss. I decided to use regular coconut oil for this recipe instead of fractionated coconut oil because it has little to no lauric acid. Black Castor Oil Is said to stimulate hair growth and strengthen thin hair, preventing hair breakage which is imperative for long locs. Black castor oil is one of the most popular oils for locs (along with regular castor oil) and is often used as a standalone so you can definitely use more than what my recipe calls for. Vitamin E Oil Not only is it said to moisturize and protect the hair from damage but it helps prevent the other oils from going rancid. Peppermint Essential Oil May help increase blood flow to the scalp which positively impacts blood vessels, stimulating hair growth and helping prevent hair loss. Rosemary Essential Oil Can possibly improve circulation, prevent hair loss and stimulate growth. Other great oils to choose from include Jojoba Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Tea Tree Oil, & Grapeseed oil. Supplies 8.5oz Applicator Bottle Ingredients 104g | 43.4% Avocado Oil 95.8g | 40% Argan Oil 23.9g | 10% Coconut Oil 11.9g | 5% Black Castor Oil 2.4g | 1% Vitamin E Oil 0.9g | 0.4% Peppermint Essential Oil 0.4g | 0.2% Rosemary Essential Oil Directions In a heat safe container melt the coconut oil. I melt it in the microwave in 15 second bursts. Once the coconut oil has cooled (and is still liquified), add all ingredients to your applicator bottle and mix. PDF with mL Measurements

Supplies Wax melting pitcher/pot or heat safe container Thermometer (2) Snap Bar Clamshells Utensil to mix wax (I use a cocktail spoon) Ingredients 106g Pillar of Bliss Wax 10g Odor Eliminating Fragrance Oil Pink Cornflower (optional) Directions Prepare a water bath by bringing a little less than 1 inch of water to a simmer on medium-low heat in a small pot. Weigh out your wax in a heat safe container/melting pitcher and place the container in the water bath in order to melt the wax. Once your wax reaches 180 degrees Fahrenheit, remove the container from the water bath and mix in the fragrance oil. Once your mixture gets down to 175 degrees Fahrenheit, pour it into your molds, only filling them 3/4s of the way. You will use the remaining wax for your second pour. Let your wax set up in the mold then re-melt the remaining wax to 165 degrees Fahrenheit and pour it in the molds to top off your wax melts. If you would like to add pink cornflower or other decorations, sprinkle them on top of your second pour while it is still in a liquid state. Let your wax melts cool at room temperature then close the clamshell. Notes This recipe makes 2 Snap Bars using the Candlescience molds. If you are using clamshells from a different source, please note that the capacity may differ, as well as the melting temperature of the clamshell (180 degrees for CS molds). If the temperature does differ, please adjust accordingly as the wax may melt the clamshell. If you are using a different wax, please adhere to the melting instructions for that wax. This recipe uses approx. 9% fragrance oil. If you find that this is too strong, you can adjust it to approx. 8% but using 107g wax and 9g fo.